In Search Of the Perfect Beach

In Search Of the Perfect Beach
We found this one in Barbados three weeks back

Wednesday, March 31, 2010

pops Top Ten Best Snorkeling Sites In the Caribbean


My wife and I enjoy snorkeling. Our life quest is to find the best beach and snorkeling spot in the warm waters of the Caribbean Sea.


In the past I gave my top ten water adventures in the Caribbean and Florida. I have been lucky enough to visit the Caribbean Islands many times and at this time have built up a collection of favorite places to snorkel that I name pops Top Ten Snorkeling Sites in the Caribbean.

Here ya go. These are not in any specific order.

1. Barbados, Snorkeling Wrecks

Most recently my wife and I flew to Barbados, a new route on JetBlue Air. We read up a bit and found they did have some snorkeling there but wasn't noted for it. Fortunately they had the best wreck snorkeling I have been privy to see in the Caribbean.

We did that swim twice. We found out which beach the wrecks were near. It was quite close to the port town of Bridgetown. We parked, walked onto the clean white sands, put on our gear and after perhaps a hundred yard swim out found our first wreck.

It was a very cool experience. The wrecks are but a twenty foot swim down so my wife got some pictures of my free-diving below. Very cool!

We made our way around and discovered another wreck and by the time we arrived at the third one the seas were kicking up a little bit of bottom silt so the view wasn't perfect. In fact it kinda freaked out my wife thinking some of those ghostly figures from the Pirates of the Caribbean film were going to come out after us.

We did manage to make our way to all five wrecks. The next day however we decided to do them again but this time with a tour outfit that added another very cool stop. See #10 later.

If anyone wants more specifics on where the wrecks are and how to get to them feel free to email me.

2. Turks and Caicos, Grace Bay

My wife and I went to Turks & Caicos last year. We found some great snorkeling on this island and well run excursions. It's now in my top three destinations along with St John, USVI and Barbados.

What I liked about Turks and Caicos was swimming with rays, turtles and over beautiful flora by swimming right out from the beach. One was about a twenty minute walk from our hotel and the other was a car ride but still right off the beach of the famed and not over-rated Grace Bay. The other pleasure is that there were hardly any other people swimming in the areas. It was all ours!

3. Trunk Bay, St John US Virgin Islands

Trunk Bay is noted for it's underwater snorkeling trail. It's a good one for beginner snorkelers because its a short easy swim right from the beach. Getting in and out of the water is easy. Once acclimated a snorkeler can break away from the trail and make their way toward a small island just yards away.

Trunks Bay has facilities including a food concession, showers and toilets. This is one of the few beaches where there is an admission fee, not much though. I suggest this to anyone who is first visiting the island and for beginner snorkelers.

4. Water Lemon Key St John US Virgin Islands

Water Lemon Key is just a fifteen minute or so drive from town via a rental car or by taxis that run the shore all day long.

This is near the ruins of a Dutch mill. A mile or so walk along the shore takes a swimmer perhaps a hundred yards from Water Lemon Key. We swam the distance across to the island one time instead of taking the loop that brings one closer. Only stronger swimmers should go that way over deeper waters.

The seas all around the Key are full of different kinds of sea creatures. We saw many sea turtles and rays in the sea grasses on the northern side of the island over a period of days. More south and east were huge star fish on the sea bottom. We also saw many squid here too. Circumnavigating the island can be a bit rough for a novice if the trade winds are blowing hard. The unprotected waters get a bit more rough. The assortment of fish however, is worth a swim too, if not spooked by the darker areas and rocky outcrops. This is perhaps one of our favorite hikes and snorkel places to enjoy.

A few times we would be engulfed in schools of tiny fish that took a while to swim through as they were near one hundred feet of swimming little animals. At one point they all scattered in front of me, but from the other direction. I was suddenly face to face with a barracuda. Very cool! Scary too. This is my favorite place to snorkel that is right from a beach.

5. The Baths, British Virgin Islands

We read about the "Baths" and had to take a look. An excursion left from St Thomas, made a stop at St. John and continued it's way to the BVI. We did have to have passports.

A bus took us from the entrance station to the Bath's National Park, BVI. A walk of a hundred yards or more brought us down to a lovely beach with lockers and facilities. We donned our gear and for four hours explored the amazing "Baths". This is an area with huge boulders that have been smoothed to a gentle roundness. They are toppled over each other in such a way that they can be walked under and small pools of water are captured in some areas. It's like nothing else I had ever seen. The walks under the boulders and swimming out among them was amazing. we found abundant sea life and the formations were haunting and interesting. This is a place everyone should try and see at least once in their lives.

6. Buck Island, St. Croix, USVI

Buck Island is reachable through boat excursions by licenced captains. It is off the coast of St Croix, the least visited of the three US Virgin Islands. They usually take people out for half day or full day trips. I wish we took the full day.

We were expecting more only because the hype has it listed as one of the top snorkeling spots in the world! Due to recent hurricanes, it may no longer hold that title. It is however, an amazing place to snorkel and is in my top five best places to snorkel. The boats take the group to an underwater trail. Unlike the one at Trunk bay on St Thomas, this one offers more for the experienced snorkeler. The formations are larger and the water deeper. This is all done from a boat. We checked out the trail and did some exploring on our own. Pretty cool.

Part of the excursion took us onto the island where we could wander or snorkel off the beach. We walked the most beautiful stretch of sand I have ever seen on any beach anywhere. Another winner.

7. Nassau, Snorkeling With Sharks, Bahamas

I've been to the Bahamas three times now. The second time had me hooked. We took a half day snorkeling trip with Stuart Cove's Aqua Adventures. It was a blast!

They first took us to one of the clearest and cleanest waters we ever were in. The coral, fans and fish were abundant and colourful It was a little deeper than I like at about 12-20 feet but the views were incredible. They then too us to an equally as interesting spot. We were so interested in the flora and fauna that we never even checked out the wreck that we were near.

The third part of this excursion was really cool. Our last stop brought us back south. This is where we received very specific instruction as to what our limits in the water are with live shark swimming some twenty to thirty feet beneath us circling a wire crate that was lowered by our crew member. The crate holds chunks of fish to attract the sharks.

Though I never felt any great thrill or feeling of really being among the abundant sharks that were just below us, it was still pretty cool watching them circling the food. It was like being at a zoo when the lions are pacing just before feeding time only here the animals were below us with nothing but water in between.

After everyone was aboard the crate was brought to the surface and the sharks continued circling it to the surface. The crate was opened and chunks of the fish were thrown onto the water's surface. It was exciting watching them make their moves to the food. The skillful maneuvering had dorsal fins break the surface and with quick moves the sharks gobbled up the bait. I suppose it was what we understand as a feeding frenzy. It was quite exciting. The day was perfect with the combo of fine clear water and colourful fauna snorkeling mixed with the splashing antics of the hungry sharks later.

Update. we did this trip again and the sharks are now swimming among those watching them. Wow! What a thrill. That said, I may never try that one again.

8. Akumel, Mexico; The Place of the Turtles

On our last trip to Mexico my wife and I made a deal with a local boat owner who promised us excellent snorkeling at a good price. That's the day we found Akumel. The name means "place of the turtles."

The captain took us a few miles from our resort and made a stop in front of a stretch of beach. There we were treated to wonderful snorkeling with an abundance of fish, fine fans and coral and best of all, for my wife, sea turtles. She spent most of one hour with her "turtle family" as she called them . It was a very large, large, and small turtle that stayed together in a grassy area munching away and not bothered by our presence.

This was a remarkable moment for her. I watched them a while too but then adventured more making many fine undersea discoveries that I wished I shared with her but she stuck with her family. Next trip dow we will be going to Akumel again.

Also in Akumel but in a different area is another fine snorkeling area but quite different. It was Yal Ku lagoon. It's an interesting setting with statues and greenery along the shore and small islands close by. The waters have some fish but nothing that grand. Some of the underwater formations were of interest but some of the waters were a bit cloudy. That said though, the whole setting made for a unique and satisfying day so if in Akumel for the turtles a short side trip there is a good stop.

9. Cozumel,

My wife and I snorkeled Cozumel twice. They weren't our favorite snorkeling trips but I believe worth some mention. It's a very different kind of snorkeling experience. First I have to say that the Mexicans do not know what they are losing as they let so many foreigners trample their assets. There seems to be little regard as to explaining to people the importance of staying off coral.

Anyways Cozumel has part of one of the worlds longest reef, second only to Australia's Great Barrier Reef, just off its shores. It's considered one of the best places for diving in the world. Though it is also hailed as tops for snorkeling too, I haven't found it.

There are two reasons why I find it good but not great. The first is that much of the reef is beyond the 12-16 foot distance I think of as ideal. We were taken to specific areas that were supposedly best for snorkelers on our last trip but they weren't as shallow as we like.

The second reason I don't care for it as much is because the swimmer is always drifting. The currents move the swimmer and there is no way to simple hover an area and study it a while, letting the fish get used to your presence and coming out more.

Having said all that, I can see the draw for divers. The walls were amazing to look at and there are all kinds of fish to spot and swim with. I do some free diving and I can get down for a while. I loved that part of it. Unfortunately my wife doesn't so she was restricted in her two experiences there.

10. Barbados, Swimming With the Turtles

A snorkeling/dive tour company, Dive Barbados Blue, took us out to "Swim with the turtles." We have had a venture of doing the same with stingrays in the Cayman Islands but this was different. We were snorkeling and I was able to free dive and get a good close look at these magnificent huge creatures from underneath and even with them.

The guides were feeding the turtles some kind of fish that the green turtles seemed to love. There were little babies, mamas and a big papa or two. A few rays were also out looking for the free lunch. We managed some fine photos and the site managed to make it into my pops Top Ten Snorkeling Sites in the Caribbean.

Coconut Court Beach Hotel; The Perfect Barbados Hotel to Stay At and Tour From






















After many stays on Caribbean Islands, my wife and I made our first trip to Barbados. The Coconut Court Beach Hotel was our lodging of choice and, as so many other travelers from Europe and Canada do now, we plan to return. The fact is, with low-rate carrier JetBlue Airlines newly adding Barbados as a destination, many more US travelers will be learning of this country's wondrous combination of cosmopolitan attractions and hidden, palm-tree lined, tropical beaches. Once they also learn of the fine value and intoxicating atmosphere of the Coconut Court Beach Hotel I believe they will begin arriving faster than one can say "Book 'em Danno."

Family Owned Business

Though the Coconut Court Beach Hotel is not as grandiose nor glamorous, as say the USVI St. Croix's Buccaneer Hotel it, like that multi-generation family owned complex, exudes that same personal touches and hands-on detail that my wife and I find important while staying at such properties.

What Coconut lacks in size, (120 rooms), this family owned business, more than gains in charm and laid back atmosphere that also blends well the country's deep British traditions.

We met Kathy and Scott who acted as our hosts and concierge being sure that our experience was much more than enjoying the accomodations of the resort which in itself makes for a pleasant holiday. Barbados has many destinations to be discovered and Kathy and Scott gave us an excellent itinerary to try and follow. We noticed them giving that same dedicated advice and wisdom to many of the hotels guests. I'll also note that even though timing didn't allow for us to take it, Ted's Tours, given directly from the hotel was a highlight of many of the people we talked to during our stay. This is a must tour if you are not renting a car.

First Impressions

The hotels roadside appeal isn't much to talk about. The country has continued the long time tradition of having entry doors close to the narrow roads. We were greeted in the lobby where our paper work was in order. We were soon escorted to our rooms by a young man who helped with our luggage.

Our room was large and rather stark in decor but warm in colour and cool in comfort. These rooms have the best air-conditioning systems I have ever encountered. It was an easy task to fine tune the temperatures for active time and sleep time in the rooms.

A small TV with limited cable stations (they did have the Olympics for us while we were there), an iron and board, small fridge, microwave, electronic safe and plenty of storage space met our basic needs. A clock of some sort would have been helpful. The king bed was extremely comfortable for me and my wife.

A small deck offered an "ocean view" that was more rooftop view than waters but most other rooms, that did cost a bit more, had glorious views of the pool and seas where the Atlantic Ocean and the Caribbean meet.

The bathroom was adequate and the shower-only just fine for our needs. The towels were smallish and you won't be finding shampoos, rinses and other countertop amenities in this hotel. The hair dryer was useful to my wife.

All in all we were quite satisfied with our room and would probably look to book the same on our next stay. Prices, that vary between $130-$230 depending on room choice and season, can be found on their web site. These prices, that include breakfast, are of excellent value!

Each day we found our room clean, tidy and smelling fresh. Christine did fine by us.

Property Points of Interest

My wife, a traveler of discretion, rates properties with pools and beaches being #1 priority. The Coconut Court did well with both. No fancy Infinity pools here but the medium sized pool was extremely clean, always. Not a speck could be found in the waters aside from a petal or two from the surrounding flora. It looked to have been newly lined. They happened to paint the deck floors around the pool the days we were there.

The pool's one end is about four foot deep and quickly drops off to "over the head" depth making it more an adults pool only. Just a note. Though there were some families with children on site the youngin's were quiet well behaved and we never had that "Kiddie take over" feel.

We made good use of the Jacuzzi (rare to find others in it) almost daily and I was impressed with the peaceful atmosphere of the deck area. There was always a table and/or lounges to be found. We did have a chuckle or two noting which lights would be plugged in each night adding to the evenings romantic vibes. The deck's close proximity to the formal bar upstairs made for a pleasant place to spend time before or after dinner. Lunch on the pool deck was popular for some.

We were privy to enjoy live local entertainment on the deck three evenings during our one week+ stay that included the Tuesday night Manager's Rum Punch Party...and a good time was had by all.

Palm Tree Shaded Beach with Protected Waters

The beach was perfect for us. This isn't a huge property but the few hundred yard beach-front was palm tree laden with plenty of shade and lounge chairs on most days. This is one of the best beaches we noted during our stay for comfort, shade, calm waters with a beach bar and facilities nearby.

An artificial reef was dropped in about one hundred feet from shore making a block of the ocean waves and providing calm waters. Inside the reefs lagoon like setting were "reef balls." These are three foot concrete formed balls with open holes allowing for fish to find protection. This made for an excellent place for beginner snorkelers to learn to appreciate the animals of the sea. My wife and I, avid snorkelers, took time to slowly observe the interaction of the different species of fish within that ecosystem. Low tide is the best time to do this.

Quick story...One morning we noticed yellow caution tape providing a ten foot circle near the beach edge. Later a worker started digging finding a collection of nearly 200 sea turtle eggs that were set in the sands by a mother turtle the night before. The Coconut Court people were careful to place them in a more secure area. It was an interesting process to watch and hopeful a few of those baby's will survive their walk to the ocean in some 50 days from now. It was good to see the hotels concern for the environment and the animals that live there.

The beach area was well maintained with a clean-up person there most every day raking palm tree a sea grape leaves and such.

The Sea Grape Bar And A Class Act In Antonio

When on a tropical vacation my wife and I love having an afternoon lunch with a few drinks with our toes in the sand. The Sea Grape Bar, not much more than a plywood frame shack with gingerbread trim and six bar stools is the domain of Antonio whose smile and grace captured the hearts of many, including my wife. It was his suggestion of bacon and pineapple on a blue cheese burger that captured the heart of this man through his stomach.

Drinks are reasonable with quick service. Be sure to listen for the ring of the bell opening and closing Happy Hours! A couple of round tables on a small deck and a handful of small brightly painted and shaded picnic tables allow for comfortable afternoon dining beach side.

Not Everything Is Perfect in Paradise

With our room price we were offered a hot meatless breakfast every morning. That was fine and bacon and more can be ordered for a price. Unfortunately the service in the morning left much to be desired. When we did order bacon it was arriving well after we were finished eating. A light evening snack ordered poolside came very cold. Apparently the kitchen was prompt but getting anything from that point to our table failed miserably. That same service, as noted earlier, was excellent at the beach bar.

It seemed that the morning crew just didn't have their act together. The popular beach-front tables were never, I mean never, attended to immediately after a party left. Every day we had to ask for someone to clear a table...and had to wait each time. Clearing the table and wiping it down at the same time was also, not the norm. Many a time we had to ask for the table to be cleaned after being cleared.

We did however have excellent results at the restaurant for their weekly Tuesday evening buffet offering Bajan fair after a Managers Rum Punch Party with plenty of live music to boot.

What was truly more troubling was the fact that some tables looked like the movie set of the Hitchcock film "The Birds." Any food left unattended on a plate was pecked at by some kind of black birds and pigeons that were perched in the rafters, power lines and trees waiting for their moment of attack. I quickly learned that first day that one must first bring any juices and coffee to the table before getting as plate of food. On that first day, when I returned to my table, food first coffee later, half my eggs and potatoes were gone! I stared down those fat birds for the next few days!!

Simply put, if the tables are quickly attended to, the birds never would get into the habit of getting a "free lunch" every morning. My wife and I have been to many, many open-aired water front restaurants, including our home town. No where else have we ever see this kind of infestation of birds. The bird problem did not seem to extend into lunch and dinner service. Perhaps it wasn't part of their meal plan.

Another fact that also put a dark cloud over our paradise one particular day was when an extremely heavy influx of cruise-ship day visitors using all the lounges, squeezing out the shaded areas, filling up the lunch time picnic tables, andmaking the beach front more a Carnival Ship festival rather than the laid back attitude usually found.

Personally, I don't mind visitors and we did have pleasant conversation with many cruise people over the week ( we enjoy cruising too) but, many of the people who visited that day were boorish. That coming from this easy going guy who likes to have fun as well as the next fella.

One other thing that was different...We usually expect a clean towel a day for pool/beach use. One had to hold that one towel for days otherwise there is a charge for a clean towel daily. Also one day when we returned to our lounge chair after a dunk in the pool we found our towel gone. Another guest told us the help took the towel stating it was the wrong colour of the day! We never did follow up on that but I would hope that the help would exchange the wrong coloured towel with the proper colour rather than leaving us dripping wet and wondering what's up?.

Location, Location, Location

As with judging many properties, location is so important. The Coconut Court Beach Hotel excels in location! It is just a twenty minute ride from the airport. I believe the a good place to stay when flying in with JetBlue Air to Barbados. It's just two minutes (not in rush hour) to the main port town of Bridgeport too. The Coconut Court happens to be in the heart of a historic Garrison area too.

Two well known destinations for fine dining along with other food and fun destinations, the "Gap" and "Oistons" are just fifteen and twenty minutes away. There are many local eateries just across the street and down the road a piece so there's plenty of diversity in food choices.

Because I rented a car I was pleased that there is relatively quick access to the ABC highway that connects to most of the country's main highways. We also used the bus system that has stops right in front of the hotel. The night time security guard was helpful to us our first nights out.

Summing It Up

My wife and I felt the Coconut Court Beach hotel grew on us everyday. It's not perfect and can use some improvement in a couple of areas but my wife and I would return in a heart beat. The mature flora around the property added a regal touch while most of the resort exuded an easy going, laid back style. Those rum punches served at the Coconut Court Beach Hotel are delicious and can hit ya like a freight train. The small, on property, gift shop made for convenience and the book-share cabinet in the lobby made for good reading.

The combination of dedicated, hard working, people like Kathy and Scott along with a perfect location makes this a popular stop for many return callers. It was also a pleasure to have daily conversations with so many different people from Europe, Canada and other US states. We were able to compare notes and share experiences most of which were planned by the hotel staff.

Yup, we were quite pleased with the Coconut Court Beach Hotel and can't wait to return.

Bridgetown, Barbados, Things to See and Do for Cruisers

Having spent a little over a week in Barbados and being just a mile or so out of Bridgetown where the cruise ships come in, I can give a few facts about that cruise port that may be helpful to you.

Whenever in a new country I like to explore what it has to offer. Bridgetown, Barbados is a busy port stop for many cruise lines and is the oldest city in Barbados and one of the oldest in the "new world."

We came in by plane so didn't have reason to be in Bridgetown as people disembarking from cruises would. We were however staying at a wonderful resort, the Coconut Court Beach Hotel, that was but a mile and a half or two out of town.

Our First Encounter With Bridgetown; A Nightmare!

In the short time we stayed in Barbados, nine days, we had a few experiences with Bridgetown and its nearby environs. The first was driving through the town on a Friday day in a rented car to search out and discover the eastern shows of Barbados. It was a nightmare!. We traveled about 10AM as suggested. (Hit the roads after rush hour we were told) We were in gridlock as we made our way through the city. Driving around the city isn't easy for a tourist. (we were fine traveling the rest of the island for the next few days) The small two lane roads follow the first plans of the city with old building holding their place and newer structures squeezed in between here and there. We lost almost an hours time getting through the small town.

The Garrison Area

My second encounter was a bit more pleasant and under my own terms. I got up early one morning and set out on foot to Bridgetown at about 6AM. The walk along H7 a road that skirts the Caribbean sea via the entrances of forts and hotels. Just outside of town, perhaps a mile, is the Garrison area where a fort, many supporting buildings, parade grounds and a huge cannon collection are. This was educational and I received a surprise. The parade grounds is now a racetrack where people run for exercise in the mornings. Aside from the grand stand area, the track is open for all to see. No fences just rail guards keeping people from walking right onto the track.

To my surprise that morning I watched many horses training at full speed. It was pretty cool being so close listening to their hooves strike the ground and their heavy breathing as the fought for oxygen to support their bodies muscles.

The area includes buildings from the turn of the century. Not the 1900s but the 1800s. A striking structure is the Main Guard House 1802 with a huge coat of arms and a working clock tower above. It's unique brick structure, of which I read the "recipe" for the brick was lost, looked fiery red in the low angled sun of the morning. Just outside the building is part of the largest collection of cannon in the Caribbean islands.

On another day my wife and I spent time in the Barbados Museum, also part of the Garrison. This is a must for history buffs and those interested in the people of Barbados. I really enjoyed it.

We never did get to visit the George Washington Houise where he did stay during his one and only excursion away from the colonies.

Carlisle Beach  

I continued my walk to Bridgetown that one morning coming to Carlisle Beach that's a short walk from the cruise docks, perhaps a half mile. This is a long stretch of clean white sand but doesn't have much in natural shade protection from the sun. Though we didn't partake, there are some small shops/restaurant/bars nearby with facilities. I don't know much about them but did see people with rented umbrellas and chairs.

On another day we were drawn to Carlisle Beach after hearing there were shipwrecks in the waters and we could get to them by simply swimming off the beach. It was true and we saw five all together. WOW!!

The Hilton Hotel property is at the far southern end of Carlisle Beach. We did a snorkeling excursion from the Dive Barbados Blue. It was all we wanted in a two hour experience. Swimming with the turtles was pretty cool.

And Finally Into Town

As I continued my lone walk into town that one early morning the residents and travlers were starting to stir. The bus terminal was jamb packed with students and people starting their days. I visited Heroes Square that has a clean modern look to it with two small bridges crossing over an inlet body of water. The boat marina was full and street merchants were setting up their goods.

I wasn't very impressed with the architecture or the layout of town. It was a mix of older establishment, historic churches and temples and busy shops.  Broad street seemed to be the main drag with larger store. The layout of the other streets, Roebuck Street and Tudor, weren't easy to follow even with a map in hand. I had a few destinations I was set to see and had trouble finding them.

I suppose my mistake was not asking for direction immediately. The Bajan people, and I don't exaggerate, are the most helpful of any I have yet met in the Caribbean and may I say anywhere we have ever traveled. They took their time, every time, to be sure we understood exactly what they told us. I found this in town and in the more rural areas. I always mention the gal who was offering her phone number to call if we got lost or had questions!

If one enjoys old graveyards Bridgetown is heaven for ya. The above ground graves and stones at the second oldest Synagogue in the western hemisphere and at a church, St Michael's Cathedral (built 1786) where George Washington was said to have worshipped are quite interesting and make for fine photos.

Suggestion For Cruise Boat Tourists In Bridgetown

My shopping prowess is weak so I can't tell you much about bargains and such. There are specialty stores, jewelry shops and Duty Free along Broad Street. The city center was an odd mix of new construction, old shops, street vendors and a huge Parliament building that simple looked out of place among the smaller operations.

If looking to see the island I would make excursion plans on the cruise ship or if you are savvy, make a deal with a taxi driver. They are eager to take you out.  Very important! Be sure to settle price first and also determine currency. US currency is $1 to $2 Barbados.

A walk To Carlisle Beach with your snorkel gear to see ship wrecks is a fine idea for strong swimmers. There are a number of catamaran and other trips to "Swim with the Turtles" and also see the wrecks.

Because we wanted the most for our time we opted for a quick two hour fast boat tour to do both the turtles and the wrecks with Dive Barbados Blue who work out of the Hilton Hotel on the southern end of Carlisle Bay.

History buffs can check out historic properties in Bridgetown and/or take a three minute bus ride to the Garrison just a mile and a half out of town.

Though the bus rates make for very inexpensive travel in Barbados don't count on them time-wise once in the rural areas. You do want to get back to your ship before it leaves port.

I do know that many cruise ships booked time at our hotel, the Coconut Court Beach Hotel in Hastings, Christ Church. It's a wonderful beach and has a fine beachfront bar with rum punches that will knock your socks off. A taxi can take you back to the ship.

Look for my review of Barbados

http://www0.epinions.com/review/trvl-Dest-Caribbean-Barbados/content_505168825988

Sunbury Plantation House, Barbados. An Educational and Lovely View of Another Time and Place




Along with the St Nicholas Abbey we also visited the Sunbury Plantation House. We also had a wonderful afternoon lunch here.

As guests in Barbados for the first time my wife and I were interested in learning of the island, its, highlights, resourses and history. The Sunbury Plantation House tended to fill each category well.

This is a place that is listed on cruise ship excursions for those visiting Barbados. If hooked up with another place or two in this more remote part of the island I believe it an excellent choice. My wife and I rented a car and after receiving direction from the good people at the Coconut Court Beach Hotel we set off on a fine day of site seeing on our own.

A Bit About the Sunbury Plantation House

Back in 1777, during the American Revolution the estate property was purchased by the Barrow family who named it after their estate in England. "Sunbury" the name. This is a large bright and airy home making good use of windows and light colours. The Victorian furnishings within are an amazing collection of antiques and artifacts. It also has some surprises that may interest camera buffs. One could spend hours in the many open rooms examining at close quarters the many pieces that are in excellent shape. Though the antiques are old the house isn't. The original was destroyed by a fire in 1995 but was rebuilt for the tours we enjoy now. Those interested in architecture will appreciate the fine moldings and arched portals that open up to the next sun lighted room.

Tours are given and a bit of free time to explore is available. We happened to note a couple of cruise excursion groups following the guide from room to room. The history of the Barbadian sugar estate great house is interesting and the guides personable and quite knowledgeable.

The cellar is a suprise in that its not a dar dreary place where root vegetables were once stored. It's now bright, well lighted and now houses the Caribbean's largest collection of elegant horse drawn carriages and an assembly of household items from a by-gone eraas quoted form the Sunbury Plantation House brochure.

Barbadian Lunch

My wife and I were interested in having the Barbadian Buffett offered in a coral stone wall lined lush garden area that was gorgeous.

We were quite pleased with the selection of Bajan delights including tradition flying fish, cou cou, sweet potatoes, macaroni pie, and a cole slaw that can't be beat. There was much more but my mind doesn't recall all at this time. I did manage to get seconds and some dessert too.

A regular menu was available too.The setting, once again, for those not on tour was exceptional. Those on tours dined under a large tent that did allow for a pleasant atmosphere from which to then tour the luscious grounds of the estate but didn't have the charm of the courtyard. Never-the-less, if on an excursion be sure to take some time walking the grounds with camera in hand.

pops Last Thoughts

Being that the Sunbury is on the more easterly part of the island be sure to see some sites on that more remote area of the island including views and a walk on some of the incredible beaches that are on the Atlantic Ocean side of the island.

My wife enjoyed our stay, about two hours and could have been much longer, at the Sunbury Great House. This plantations grounds are truly lovely and worth a stop as well as the St. Nicholas Abbey of which I will be reviewing soon.

Dining in the coral stone lined courtyard on that lovely afternoon was one of our highlights of our eight night, (not nearly enough) stay on the island of Barbados.

Oistins, Barbados: The Friday Night Thing To Do In Barbados


Barbados offered sunny skies and fine snorkeling. It also offered excellent Bajan food and the onlt place to try it is in the town of Oistins on a Friday or Saturday night.

After arriving in Barbados onour first visit last month my wife and I inquired as to some of the things to do, local fare to eat and also get a feel of Bajan culture. We soon learned that a visit to Oistins, Barbados was the place to gain all we were looking for in one fun, entertaining and exciting evening.

Oistins, Barbados

Oistins is the name of a small coastal fishing town on the south end of Barbados. It's claim to fame in history was being the site where in the 1600s a conflict between opposing factions one looking for independence from England brought forth an agreement giving Barbados a parliament that is the third oldest in the Commonwealth.

In recent time it is the fish market area that brings tourists and locals together for food music and merriment. Every Friday and Saturday night an area adjacent to the market stalls are filled with the aroma of fish cooking. The many stands present their own style of cooking and menu of which most offer basis Bajan fare of fried and grilled fish, macaroni pie, sweet potatoes and coleslaw with plenty of local beer to wash it down.

Our Visit To Oistins

We were still renting a car so we took a fifteen minute drive from our hotel the Coconut Court Beach to Oistins. There was plenty of parking as recommended at a shopping center nearby. Many take the bus system that we used on other occasions that cost but .75 a crowded and daring ride.

We first passed by fishing vendors cleaning up the market for the day and it seemed that some of the fish fry people were picking up fresh bags of fish soon to be served.

We enjoyed walking around watching the different vendors cooking their foods. Each had their own methods of grills and cooking. My wife found one place she felt particularly clean and with a pleasant gal cooking and reasonable prices (they all are) with a local menu that suited us.

We ordered the flying fish a local delight that is light, moist and DE-licious. The real dishes at this place, (paper plates at many others) were filled with that macaroni pie and a coleslaw that seems to be made by the same person at every place in Barbados. They have their recipe down pat.Our well packed plates of food were $12 each. There's no frills or well presented fare here. It's the fresh food, music and atmosphere that sells.

Everyone gets to sit at picnic tables, first come first served. We noticed that earlier in the evening 8PM till 11PM many tourists are eating (an older crowd) but after eleven is when the place really gets hoping. The music at the stage pumps up and the young local Bajans fill the area. More music can be heard at the bars and other businesses across the street.

My wife and I enjoyed the evening topping it off with the best rum raisin gelato ever. We found it after walking the open air booths nearby the seashore that displayed local artists work and other wares that made for keepsake souvenirs.

The Last Word

We enjoyed Barbados that seemed to offer more sites to see than most any Caribbean Islands my wife and I have visited. I read that the Oistins experience is the second most popular site on the island after Harrison Cave. Look for a review of those incredible caves coming soon. My wife and I happened to visit it on the first day the reopened after a years multi-million dollar renovation.

We really did enjoy Oistins for the food, atmosphere and a taste of local culture. If we were in Barbados another Friday night we would have revisited and filled our plate with Bajan fare again... and that's a fact!&

St. Nicholas Abbey, Barbdos


Our recent trip to Barbados offered more than just snorekling of wrecks. Read on.

Barbados has a long history of sugar cane farming after the Dutch and persecuted Jews from Brazil helped introduce it to the island as a more profitable crop than cotton and tobacco that was farmed by the English in the earlier 1600s.

Indentured servants used for the hard labor were soon replaced by more profitable help, slaves from Africa. This dreadful source of manpower continued for almost two hundred years as the slaves worked the plantation while the owners lived in huge well kept beautifully landscaped estates with the finest of furniture. St Nicholas Abbey was one such great house.

The name, St Nicholas Abbey, from what we were told may have been titled as a blend of the Parish it was in, St. Peter, the surname one of the past owners names (Nicholas) and a connection that person had to the Bath Abbey in England. (a huge Gothic style Anglican church that I am pleased to say I visited and worshipped in some 15 years ago.)

The Great House

The great house of St Nicholas Abbey was built in Jacobean style that the brochure I read is uncommon in the "New World." In fact I read that is may be the only original standing structure of it's type after the devastating fire to The Sunbury Plantation House that burned to the ground in 1995. The structure was rebuilt to original specs but the loss does leave St Nicholas as the oldest original Jacobean style plantation house in Barbados, the Caribbean and all the Americas.

Walking through the Drawing Room, Dining Room, Study and more immerses one into another time and place. A look at the "Gentleman's Chair" brought smiles as I compared its creature comforts of a book holder, newspaper stand, built in reading lamp, foot and back rests, built in tables and more to the lounge chair we had in our home for years. Ours didn't stand up to this functional yet fanciful piece of furniture

The home is truly a wonder to see and the immediate grounds around it both interesting and architecturally stunning. A fee collectected at the front door opens up the homes first floor and the out buildings and grounds. There's quite a bit to see and the brochure package that has a colourful map, tour guide and historical information is THE best I have ever received anywhere. It's a true keepsake.

We spent perhaps an hour and a half but I could see some people spending more time, especially if having lunch on their outside patio area. It's a pleasant setting but the service at the Terrace Cafe seemed dreadfully slow on a day we wanted to see as much as we could, so we opted to move on. St. Nicholas Abbey has innumerable settings for artful photographs so a camera is a must and time to use it imperative if seeking memorable images.

Taking some time to walk the gully that allows time experience a landscape filled with lush indigenous flora with tall graceful palm trees way above and ferns and flowers covering the grounds below. It's a short walk that ties in the house withe the mill area so I strongly recommend it.

Work is still in progress as the proprietors continue a long term update of the outbuilding, the windmill and starting up as a fully working plantation once again.

A Taste Of Sugar

Just outside the gates of the plantation house are fields of sugar cane. My wife was sure to take some photographs. Me I wanted to try the one of the final products of sugarcane, rum and I did.

As of now St Nicholas does make a wonderful rum in it's own on grounds distillery that all are privy to try in both a rum punch that is gratis and a small sip or two of the rum that can be sent home in bottles that are personally etched. We enjoyed both the punch and the rum.

Be Sure To see the Film

A highlight of our self guided tour was seeing a 1935 film that was shot by a previous family owner. I found it a remarkable twenty minutes showing what life was like back in those times. The narration offered both historic background blended with good humor.
One must ask one of the many tour guides that are on the grounds ready to engage the tourist and answer any questions. They were delightful to talk with.

A Bit More To See and Say

My wife and I walked the Flower and Herb garden that weren't a must to see. We did however take macro images of the orchids that were in the courtyard. Also nearby was Lance and Baby. These are two Cockatoos that did entertain us and pose for pictures after they escaped their cage that afternoon.

After our visit we were told to be sure and see Cherry Tree Hill we didn't see cherry trees that I was aware of but my wife and I were treated to a truly glorious view of the east shores beaches from high above looking down at the Atlantic Ocean. It's a must look-see that's just a minute or two car ride from the house itself. Ask any tour guides if that view is part of a day tour of the island. It's a winner.

Pops Last Thoughts

My wife and I highly recommend St Nicholas Abbey as a definite place to visit while in Barbados. If one is on a one day stop on a cruise and can give up the beach and snorkeling (something my wife and I would do first) the a ride to this plantation house is recommended. If it's tied in with Harrison Cave, so much the better because the ride should take you to Cherry tree Hill with it's amazing views of the beaches so far below and in the far distance.

St Nicholas Abbey is listed as one of the Seven Wonders of Barbados that include Harrison Cave that I hope to review within a few weeks and also the Barbados Synagogue, one of the oldest in the Americas first built in 1694 and today continues to be host to a Jewish community.

St Nicholas Abbey was a fine blend of history, rum tasting, and unhampered and delighful self-guided tour that brought us into contact with a unique great house, wonderful paths of flowers and other flora and a picture of what life was like so long ago.

Learning to Love Barbados, One Sunny Day At A Time
























































All A New Visitor, Day-Cruising or Staying Over, Needs To Know About the Best Of Barbados

Upon the end of my first day in Barbados I was wondering what happened to my wife's incredible skill of discovering the most perfect of pearls of the Caribbean from a pile of unmarked oysters. She has always had the knack of researching islands, hotels and destinations and separating the hype from fact. By the end of our second day on Barbados and those next seven to come, my faith in her discernment was more than restored. In fact I marvel even more at her keen insight and judgement in discovering life's wonders.

Barbados was much more than we expected!!

Barbados Basics

Barbados is the most easterly island of the Caribbean's West Indies islands with the Atlantic Ocean to the east and the Caribbean Sea lapping gently on its westerly shores. The climate is a pleasant 84F-88F all year round with sunny skies and a constant cooling northeast trade wind. One is always comfortable in the shade.

It was British possession for hundreds of years with most residents still speaking the English language with a British/Bajan dialect. Barbaods boasts the highest literacy rate of all the Caribbean Islands.

I liked that the electicity is much like that of the USA so no converters were needed. I easily picked up a roaming signal and could use my cell phone to call the states anytime and everywhere on the island we visited. Though they have their own currency, the Barbados dollar, the US was accepted everywhere and at this time the US dollar is worth exactly double of the Barbados dollar so the math conversion is quite easy to determine. $1 US = $2 Barbados.

Barbados happens to be more populated per square mile than any other Caribbean Island. It's black and white population still hold onto much of the British, African and West Indies influence of their culture even after gaining their own independance in 1966. The people we met were by farthe most friendly and helpful we have ever met in the Caribbean. They seem to value tourist and you will also learn much about their leading export sugar. Many examples of the Bajan hospitality will be noted within this review.

Crime is not a major problem in Barbados as it is on some other Caribbean Islands we have visited. That said, taking caution as to knowing where you are and when there, should be part of your usual thoughts of safety.

It was in learning of the island and it's people that my wife and I quickly found out how to enjoy all this little West Indian destination, less than two hundred square miles, has to offer.

Getting Around Barbados

Because we were staying longer than a week our plan was to rent a car, drive around the island and visit the many historic and natural destinations it has to offer rather than paying take tours to them. We like the freedom to linger at some places and move on from others.

We did rent a car for a few days and, having already done so in England and the Virgin Islands, I was more than comfortable driving on the opposite side of the road with the steering wheel on the right. On our first day, however, we were not prepared for the traffic and we made the mistake of driving into and through Bridgetown, their main port, at the tail end of rush hour. Yes, Barbados does have a traffic problem that I have not experienced in other Caribbean Countries. The roads and signing were a bit of a challenge at first but after three days of travel we were quite comfortable getting our bearings. A strong suggestion about renting if aprehensive aboput driving. Although there may be a few destinations that could be closed, rent a car on a weekend. The roads are relatively clear those days and it's much easier getting around quicker and with less pressure.

Though that first day was tainted with heavy traffic and also ill-winds on the north-western part of the island causing less than clear waters and an unusually rough surf for the west shore, everything changed the next day and forever more for us on that island paradise.

During our last days on the island, without a rental, we walked and opted for their bus system. $1.50 Barbados, exact change needed. That's seventy-five cents US for a ride. We found there were two kinds of buses. First were regular full-sized buses that made regular stops and then there were these small white vans with red stripes that scooted about picking up fares for the same price. Their unique horns made all aware (or was that warned) that they were coming. We did both type buses and though sometimes jamb-packed they were reliable on the busy runs on the south shore where we were.

I do want to give the fearless drivers of those small buses kudos though. When I was driving my rented car, (they know it from the plates and markings) they were very respectful and helpful letting us get onto the roads and also allowing us to cross busy streets when on foot. They also flashed oncoming traffic to stop for us.

As slow as I was driving at times I didn't get impatient tailgaters with honking horns behind me.

Taxis are abundant in Barbados. Be VERY sure to note price before setting off and be sure you are talking the same dollar, Barbados or US! The two we met (to and from the airport $20 US each way) were pleasant, honest and good safe drivers.

For those who decide not to drive but want to see the islands highlights I can strongly recommend "Ted's Tours." You can get information at the Coconut Court Beach Hotel just a mile or so out of Bridgetown. After meeting Ted I can tell you you probably couldn't find a more humorous or knowledgeable guy who loves what he is doing. Ya gotta book early. His bus fills up quickly.

Coming To Our Rescue

For getting comfortable on the narrow, winding and sometimes hilly Barbados roads much was due to Bajans (an unknown word to me until our visit, that describes the Barbados people) who time after time came to our rescue giving specific direction when we were lost. (This is not unusual so be prepared if deciding to go out on your own). I had to laugh to myself when one gentleman had me repeat every turn and landmark he gave. Hey, he got us there!

More than once, and unsolicited, we were asked if we needed help when we were reading maps while driving or on the side of the road. One gal even offered her phone number to call if we were lost! Every person we did ask for help were equally involved and helpful. I was truly amazed at the concern and warmth of Bajan people whether in town or in tiny villages in the hills.

During our three days of car rental we discovered the natural wonders of the the Barbados east coast with incredible sandy white beaches with odd formation of stones, tall palm trees and pounding Atlantic surf as well as the calm side western side with upscale hotels and a couple of exciting snorkeling experiences.

We never did make it to the more secluded, less populated and much less visited northern shores of the island. We did however stay at and enjoy the islands southern shores that are quite cosmopolitan in culture and cuisine. It's the "happening" place to be on the island.

Trading In Rush Hour for Happy Hour

After our first few days of discovering the island we stayed mostly at our hotel the Coconut Court Beach Hotel, Hastings, Christ Church, Barbados, on the islands south shore. It was perfect for us in many ways including location, cleanliness, it's palm shaded beach, attitude and overall helpfulness in gaining information and insight of the rest of the island. Be sure to read my review of our stay below. We spent most of our last five days "liming." This is the Barbados word equal to "relaxing", "hanging" or "chillin" and with a touch of lime in every rum punch offered on the island I believe I understand its meaning.

Relaxing on a beach that has everything you need makes for the perfect place to "lime" and that's what we did with a mix of perhaps one bus trip or walk a day to see historic places or dine off-premises. Barbados is a country that one can spend a good amount of time exploring or just sitting back. Our choice of discovery the first few days and relaxing the rest was perfect for us. The Coconut Court Beach Hotel in the Hastings Christ Church area was the perfect launching point and "liming" point for us.

Outstanding Beaches

During our travels on our own we did find some fine beaches including Bottom Bay Beach that was one of the most picturesque in the Caribbean. It fits that description so well it was said it brings professional cameramen and beautiful models for photo shoots to grace the pages of glossy magazines of all types.

We spent a lazy afternoon on the splendid Bathsheba Beach after lunch at the Round House. This is a lovely beach with plenty of people walking its amazing shores.

Though we didn't make it down to their beach we did appreciate the views of Crane Beach from the well known Crane Hotels overlook points. A swim in their infinity pool was wonderful too.

We spent most of our time however on the lovely palm tree shaded beach of our resort, the Coconut Court Beach hotel, that many others from cruise ships and locals enjoy too.

Carlisle Bay Beach was a plain looking but expansive white sand, clean beach in Bridgetown. We found some wrecks there that I write more of later.

Dining On Barbados

Unknown to me before research I learned that Barbados has some of the very finest of restaurants and cuisine of the Caribbean islands and through their hype, the world. It can also be quite expensive. Dinner out with just a drink and entree-only easily makes it over the $120 US mark in the 'finer' restaurants. Some were somewhat worth the extra and another was not.

We happened to be on the south shore and just ten minutes from the "Gap" an inlet area with many fine restaurants and "happening" night life.

We were just fifteen minutes from Oistens. This is a fishing village that has an open house type fish fry every Friday and Saturday night. Many locals openly cook fresh fish and add many Bajan specialties to the plate for about $12US each. Get a Banks beer for $2US, (their local beer) and enjoy watching the people as they play music, dance and have fun shopping the local art and craft booths.

Tourist are there earlier filling the picnic tables and as the night goes on those crowds start to thin out and the locals start filling the dining areas, dance floors, and into and across the streets where many local clubs have their own music and drink. This is not a sleepy area where places shut down before 10 PM. The action goes on well into weekend nights.

Two places outside the south shore that were recommended and good finds were the Sunbury Plantation House and the Round House Inn Restaurant. The latter that overlooks the islands eastern beaches offered a Sunday afternoon that was heavenly in sights, sounds (live music), sensation, (cooling breezes) and aromas. The food was excellent too. It was of good portion, presentation and prepared as ordered. This tourist spot is of good value. Come back for links to my reviews of both in the near future.

Visiting Historic and Natural Sites

I like to visit a country's historic and natural areas. The beaches we visited as mentioned earlier were a delight. We were also privy to visit the Harrison Caves ( A review coming soon) on its first day of opening after being closed a year for a total new look (the entrance, visitors center, elevators and all...not the caves themselves.)

I was quite impressed and more-so my wife who along with me have visited some much grander caves in the US but were taken by the tour given in Barbados. The tram ride underground was amazing! This is worth a visit even though they priced it at I believe $15US a head.

My wife and I took a walk to the Barbados Museum in the Garrison area where our hotel was. Two forts are within easy walking distance. The Barbados Museum is a fine small museum now housed in a former military prison. I thought it a good stop also being on the former parade grounds that is now a race track. I enjoyed seeing the horses training early mornings.

One early morning I took a long walk into Bridgetown from my hotel. I wasn't especially impressed with the layout of this centuries old port. I suppose I like things neat and tidy and this port is sprawling with historic sites, public buildings, small shops and open markets in a haphazard disarray of new and old buildings and structures.

I did get to visit the Bridgetown Jewish Synagogue that is the site of the first Jewish worship in the 1660s. The current building 1831 still stands over cemeteries with stones marked in the 1600s. This is considered one of the "Seven Wonders of Barbados" that included a few stops we made including "Cannon Galore" a collection of the 'oldest and most of' in the Caribbean. This was just a half mile from our hotel. We also drove to the Saint Nicholas Abbey another wonder, and the Harrison Caves as earlier noted.

In Bridgetown I also took photos of and in two cathdrals St. Michael's and St Patrick's. The Parliament building while being beautiful as well as imposing was ill-set being behind high fences in the middle of the city.

A brief visit to the Folkestone Marine Park in Barbados gave an understanding of how the Barbados people care about their marine resources. They had unusually heavy seas clouding the waters that day and we never snorkeled the famed marked underwater way. I do have to give applause to the good people of ourhotel who, one day, dug up almost two hundred turtle eggs and moved them inland because they were in danger of getting swept out to sea due to currents eating away at the beach high tide lines. Barbados is a nesting ground for a couple of rare turtles, Leather Back and Hawksbill, and the feeding and play ground of giant green turtles.

Snorkeling Barbados

My wife and I are avid snorkelers and look to the Caribbean Islands for their best experiences. Barbados has two pluses. An experience to "Swim with the Turtles" and to snorkel ship wrecks. We found the wrecks right off-shore ourselves. Five of them and let me tell ya, It's a very cool experience!

We did book a short, to the destination trip, with the Dive Barbados Blue, Hilton Hotel, snorkel and dive tours. I can recommend them for a two hour trip. The island also offers and recommends longer catamaran rides with a lazy feel or party atmosphere for many hours of the day. My wife and I wanted more time on our lovely beach so we went for the direct, no frills tour with Dive Barbados. A review of them will follow soon.

We have some excellent images of huge turtles up close to a point she could touch them. The clear waters that day made it an amazing adventure.

Closing Thoughts

My wife and I truly enjoyed this island and that affection grew each day we stayed. It was getting to know the people there that was one huge asset. The Bajan people were friendly and so very helpful when we were on the road. Every person gave us much time and patience. The people at our hotel, Kathy and Scott gave us points of interest to see and were intuitive of what sites would interest us. That made for tailor made excursions.

For those on a cruise there are a number or excursions available that can be booked on the island ahead of time. Feel free to email me if you want some suggestions or if you have questions. For those who like snorkeling and beaches only, feel free to email too. I think I can give direction on how to plan a perfect day for ya.

My wife and I enjoyed little bit of adventuring around the island the first few days on our own We also loved snorkeling over wrecks and swimming with the sea turtles. Best of all however was "liming" and enjoying the rum punches and local Banks beer. The island was an adventure for us and our beach was perfect for us and...

...Barbados was the complete package. We plan to return...but for more than just eight nights

A New Snorkeling Experience


My wife and I have been on a quest for discovering the perfect beach with nearby snorkeling in clear turquoise waters. We have been privy to sun, swim and snorkel the protected reefs of the Florida Keys, many Caribbean Islands and many points on Mexico's Yucatan Peninsula. There's nothing like swimming among natures fauna and flora for the two of us. My wife loves sea turtles and I enjoyed the thrill of reef sharks swimming within feet of me and actually brushing across my body. Feeding sting rays, searching for live conch for lunch, and swimming through a hundred yards of school fish only to suddenly be face to face with a barracuda gets the adrenalin flowing. We have watched sea horses and squid float in front of our noses and have free dived to see and feel giant star fish on white sandy ledges around small keys.

About three weeks ago we had a new experience snorkeling wrecks in Barbados. WOW!! five wrecks were in the area and on one less than clear day under the waters it seemed that the ghosts of the dead sailors from the Pirates of the Caribbean films were about to kidnap us and hold us for a ransom of treasure chest filled with gold and jewels.

Barbados offered more than we thought it would. I'd like to share my thoughts of that country in my next blog. I also hope to post "pops Top Ten Best Snorkeling Sites In the Caribbean." soon.

Off to watch American Idol...who will be leaving this week?

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About Me

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I'm a 60ish fellow that loves life with his wife, children and grandchildren. My wife and I now travel as often as we can. The Caribbean is our favorite destination whether exploring an island for a couple of weeks or making stops here and there via cruise ships. At our age we have decided that looking for the perfect place to snorkel is our #1 goal in life. I've posted many travel reviews on the Internet that I hope to share them here on my blog.